info@PortableBoatLift.com All content Copyright© 941.376.9199
Made in the USA
6 feet tall...10 feet wide between stands...2610 lb WLL...
Each main part weighs approximately 75 pounds, heavy duty-not heavy.
All built in accordance with Engineered drawings and a 1.5 safety factor...
MADE in the USA!
The Portable Boat Lift is...
QUICK INFORMATION: the Winch and Pivot Stands are 6 feet tall each and the Trapeze is 10 feet wide between them when attached to the Stands. This width allows typical 8 feet and 8 feet 6 inch wide trailers to be pulled out from under the boat, between the Stands, and out from under the Trapeze with room to spare on each side.
We recommend the Lift be used on boats that are less than 2610 lbs at the bow while supported under the tansom with boat stands . Boats are heavier at their stern and weigh substantially less than half the weight of the boat at the bow. The length of boat that can be lifted is determined by the weight of your boat at its bow while supponted under the transom with your stands or supporting dunnage. Most boats under 25 feet fall into this category but many longer boats do as well.
There are numerous adjustment holes in each Stand to accommodate a wide variety of Bow Eye heights. The Trapeze is hung from the Bow Eye on the boat with the supplied hitch pin. One end of the Trapeze is attached to the Pivot Stand with the supplied safety pin. The other end of the Trapeze is attached to the winch cable hook coming over the pulley on top of the Winch Stand.
The WLL (Working Load Limit) for the Portable Boat Lift has been Engineered to 2610 pounds, and calculated with a 1.5 Safety Factor. This is usually more than enough as the weight at the Bow (Eye), as mentioned, is usually substantially less than half the weight of the boat.
All steel fabricated parts are manufactured in accordance with ASTM Standards. All welding is done in accordance with AWS Standards. All steel fabricated parts are fully welded, not just tack welded, at all contact points. All Lifts are fabricated at a Certified Welding Shop, locally, and all parts (except for the wheels) are made in the USA!
60 accessory parts (hardware), 28 metal fabricated parts, 75 drilled holes, and 57 welds.
No more crawling under the boat for me; No more costly trips to the Marina; No more bottle and floor jacks; No more searching for a handy tree limb; No more waiting for someone else to do it. It fits in the back of your pick up, stores in a corner, and sets up on any firm level surface!
If you try and lift both ends of anything at the same time you loose the advantage of LEVERAGE.
You would rather lift a boat at the bow than try to lift it at the transom. It's simply going to be heavier at the transom. The farther the center of gravity (load) is away from the effort, the side you are lifting, and the closer the center of gravity (load) is to the pivot point, the supported end at the transom, the more leverage you have.
You don't choke up on wheel barrow handles when it's full of concrete.
How it Works:
A second order lever has its fulcrum (the pivot point) and effort (the end that is lifted) at opposite ends with the load somewhere between the two.
The Boat itself acts as a Second Order Lever because it pivots on the stands placed under the transom while being lifted at the bow.
The Trapeze acts as a Second Order Lever because it is supported/pinned at one end and lifted on the other by the cable hook coming over the pulley on top of the Winch Stand. It provides a pivot action of a Second Order Lever which lifts the Trapeze up at one end (while attached to the bow eye) tilting the boat up at the bow while the boat is supported under the transom with your boat stands.
As the Trapeze is lifted on one end and pinned at the other you gain the advantage of a Second Order Lever. As the Trapeze rises at one end, the middle of the Trapeze rises as well, this tilts the bow of the boat up and off the front of the trailer while the boat is supported under the transom by your boat stands pivoting the boat up and off the entire length of the trailer with the same Second Order Lever action.
The Trapeze, as a part of the totally Engineered Lift, has a WLL (Working Load Limit) of 2610 pounds (as previously mentioned) at its center with a 1.5 Safety Factor. The "bow eye attachment point" has to be at the center of the Trapeze for proper weight distribution on the two Stands. It also needs to be centered to have equal space away from each Stand to allow the trailer to be pulled out while centered between the two Stands.
As you can see from the pictures below, the weight of most boats is concentrated aft allowing for the lighter bow area to be tilted up enough by the Portable Boat Lift, while supported under the transom, to pull the trailer out from under the boat.
Look how much these boats cantilever out past the boat storage racks with apparently no ill affect to its stability. It's just much lighter at the bow.
It's not the length or weight of the boat; it's the weight at the bow eye while supported under the transom with boat stands providing a pivot action. The Trapeze has a Working Load Limit (WLL) of 2610 pounds at its center with a 1.5 Safety Factor. The winch and cable therefore only need to be rated at 1305 pounds because they're only lifting one end of the Trapeze (the Lever) or half the 2610 pound rating at the center. The Cable we use, 1/4 inch 7/19 galvanized, has a breaking strength of 7000 pounds and a WLL of 1400 pounds. The Winch used, Dutton Lainson DLB 2500 Auto Brake Winch, has a Working Load Limit (WLL) of 2500 pounds. We use a 2500 pound vs a 1500 pound rated winch for the much greater mechanical advantage and ease of use when turning its handle.
A 1500 pound winch has a 5.4:1 Gear Ratio and a 36.8 Maximum Mechanical Advantage which would be capable of lifting 3000 pounds at the center of the Trapeze, BUT the 2500 pound winch we use has a 17.3:1 Gear Ratio and a Maximum Mechanical Advantage of 115.3 capable of lifting a 5000 pound load at the center of the lever we call the Trapeze. It's just much less effort and easier to use a 2500 pound Auto Brake Winch. The Auto Brake Winch locks the load wherever it is when you stop cranking with NO levers to move to reverse the action and lower the boat.
Inboards and I/O's will still follow this pattern of weighing less at the Bow Eye; usually weighing substantially less than half the weight of the boat at the Bow. Outboards will actually lessen the weight at the Bow as the boat will essentially have a counterweight aft of your boat stands, the pivot point you create under the Transom, helping to lift the bow.
The Bow Eye of the boat actually rests on the Trapeze "bow eye attachment point". This attachment point is designed not to come in contact with the bow. The Trapeze "bow eye attachment point" pushes up on the bottom of the Bow Eye, tilting the boat up providing enough separation between the boat and trailer to remove the trailer.
The Trapeze uses three Safety Pins, one at the Pivot Stand and two at the Winch Stand.
It has one Safety Pin going through its Tabs and through the Pivot Stand, in one of its many height adjustment holes, providing the pivot point. The Trapeze also has tabs at its other end. A Safety Pin is placed through its holes in the tabs outside of the Winch Stand Center Post, which encases the Stand between it and the Trapeze. The second Safety Pin, at the Winch end of the Trapeze, is placed through the first hole in the Stand under the Trapeze where/when the Trapeze stops lifting. Even though you're using an Auto Brake Winch, this Safety pin provides a hard mechanical point that the Trapeze cannot come down past.
These two levers, "the boat itself and the Trapeze", work just like a wheelbarrow. The handles of a wheelbarrow are lifted while the tire at the other end is supported by the ground with its load is somewhere between the two. Without the benefit of lever action it is unlikely you could lift the contents of a heavily laden wheelbarrow.
The Trapeze only needs to be lifted 8 to 12 inches at one end by cranking the handle on the Auto Brake Winch which lifts the center of the Trapeze 4 to 6 inches. It takes very little effort to gain the amount of Lift needed to separate the boat from the trailer. One half inch of total separation between the hull and trailer is all you'll need to pull the trailer out from under the boat. The reason the winch end of the trapeze needs to be lifted 8 to 12 inches is because there is spring left in the tires and suspention that rises up as you take weight off the trailer. This may be more or less depending on your boat/trailer type and configuration.
Read the Basic "How To" Instructions and
all of the Safety Information listed Below
THE PORTABLE BOAT LIFT IS NOT INTENDED FOR USE BY PERSONS (INCLUDING AND ESPECIALLY BY CHILDREN) WITH REDUCED PHYSICAL OR MENTAL CAPABILITIES, OR LACK OF EXPERIENCE OR KNOWLDGE.
Call or Write with any questions or comments BEFORE YOU START
FIRST, BEFORE YOU START, CHECK THE SOUNDNESS OF YOUR BOW EYE INSIDE AND OUT.
IT SHOULD BE IN A NEW OR LIKE NEW CONDITION; IT SHOULD BE FACTORY OR PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED WITH LARGE DIAMETER BACK WASHERS OR BACKPLATE.
ALSO, SOUND THE HULL WITH A RUBBER MALLET IN THE AREAS YOU PLAN TO PLACE BOAT STANDS WHILE CHECKING THE ENTIRE HULL. IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO SOUND A HULL PLEASE RESEARCH THIS ACTION ON THE WEB AND/OR CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL.
Never leave the boat unattended before it is completely secured with proper boat stands or substantial dunnage. Never allow children around the Boat or Boat Lift while performing the operation or until the boat is properly supported (a condition where the boat cannot fall). If you plan to leave the Lift attached to the Bow Eye, secure the winch handle with a lock and chain or cable so that it cannot be moved to raise or lower the Lift without your knowledge or presence.
DO NOT remove the handle of the winch. If the handle is removed the Auto Brake feature will be disengaged.
The ABYC states; 18.104.22.168 A Bow Eye or Strap and their points of attachment to the Hull shall be able to accommodate a direct tension pull of two times the sum of the weight of the boat and its recommended weight capacity.
Check your bow eye thoroughly as it may not be installed or designed in accordance with these requirements, especially if you have an older boat. Lift the boat slowly and once separated from the trailer slowly pull the trailer out adding additional Boat Stands or Substantial Dunnage AS YOU PULL THE TRAILER OUT. The boat will have nowhere to go if supported by Boat Stands or Substantial Dunnage or while it is still able to go directly back down onto the trailer just a fraction of an inch below.
All of this information and more in PDF Format will be sent to you so that you can print it out and use it during the Lifting operation, once you order the Lift.
1. All written information must be read and understood before you proceed. SAFETY FIRST…
2. Always start by inflating the tires on your trailer to the maximum allowed on the tires’ sidewall…
3. Chock each of the boat trailer wheels, on both sides of the trailer, in front and in back of the wheels…
4. Lower the tongue of the boat trailer as low as it will go to raise the transom as high as it will go…
5. Set your boat stands under the transom and snug them up one turn past tight…
6. Raise the tongue of the trailer as high as it will go…
7. Hang the Trapeze from the bow eye with the provided hitch pin and secure it with its clip…
8. Attach the Trapeze to the Pivot Stand with the provided spring pin, preferably to the first hole above the Trapeze level position; it is beneficial to start the operation with the Trapeze slightly higher than level at the Pivot Stand…
9. Attach the hook from the Winch Stand cable to the eye nut on the other end of the Trapeze and crank the winch one turn past a snug/tight cable; both stands should have their back legs pointing out, away from the center…
10. Now install the provided safety chain around the base of each stand leaving an inch or two of slack…
11. A Safety Pin is now placed through the holes in the tabs outside of the Winch Stand Center Post, which encases the Stand between it and the Trapeze.
12. Lower the tongue of the boat trailer slightly to bring it down to lessen the bow end of the boats’ contact with the trailers boat hull supports while the bow is now starting to be suspended by the Trapeze…
13. Continue cranking the winch on the winch stand until the boat is separated from the trailer…
14. Use the raising and lowering of the tongue of the trailer and the lifting action of the Trapeze to accomplish the minimum amount of total separation needed from all trailer supports to safely pull the trailer out from under the boat. Check thoroughly that there is total separation from the front to the rear of the boat hull from all trailer supports before and during the entire removal of the trailer. Your boat trailer guides may need to be lowered or removed.
15. Once you have established the final height of the Trapeze at the Winch Stand end, place the final, third, Safety Pin through the first available hole in the Winch Stand under the Trapeze Tabs to provide a hard point the Trapeze cannot come down past. No need to lower the Trapeze down to this Safety Pin.
16. If your boat is on any incline the trailer will have a tendency to roll at this point. Be very careful when removing the wheel chocks and while pulling the trailer out so as not to have it jump right, left, backward, or forward while safely guiding the boat trailer out under the Trapeze and between the two Stands, and clear of the Boat Lift.
17. IMPORTANT: Install boat stands as instructed by your boat stand manufacturer in accordance with their recommendations for your particular boat (or install substantial dunnage, not cinder or hollow concrete blocks) as you pull the trailer out and before going under the boat. The boat will have nowhere to fall except for an inch or so back onto the trailer…You should put stands and substantial dunnage under a raised boat for the same reason you put stands or substantial dunnage under a jacked up car and you shouldn't go under either before installing proper stands or substantial dunnage to protect yourself from crushing.
I define "Dunnage" as used throughout this website as material used to support loads up off the ground. "Substantial dunnage" as referred to throughout this website is; either structural foam blocks used by the boating industry, timber, or other dense material that will not crush or distort, or manufactured boat stands.
We do not suggest or endorse the use of hollow concrete or 'cinder' blocks. Concrete or cinder blocks have superior resistance to crushing yet are or can be brittle and crack. Hollow concrete or cinder blocks, although they too have been engineered to have superior resistance to crushing when used in a wall or foundation have the tendency to crack easily when used alone especially when they are used lying on their side. Blocks in the upright position without a solid top of thick enough wood material or a poured concrete beam with steel reinforcement to spread the load applied across the entire top of the block will still have the potential for cracking or crushing. When using blocks in a wall or foundation they are laid in a bed of mixed mortar, its primary function being "workability", to fully support and bed their entire footprint, and mortar is used again to fully support the course of block above while a cap of wood or concrete beam, poured in place acts as a support to spread the load applied to the top of the block wall. We won't get into dry stacking of blocks for building walls here. A concrete or 'cinder' block can be easily cut in half with a few taps of the edge of a mortar trowel. One single hammer blow to the side of a block can easily crush it. Blocks are only as strong as and will perform for the purpose for which they are intended when they are used in accordance with and as a part of a system or method of installation.
A thin piece of wood on top of an 8 X 16 inch block with a block sitting on an irregular surface such as rock, or a concrete driveway with a crack in it (one side of the crack slightly elevated as will often occur), will not withstand the torsional or tension stresses transferred to the block and can crack and or crush the block. Block is not designed or intended to act against the forces such as beam is designed for. It has superior compressive strength limited to its intended purpose as a part of a system of installation it is designed to be used in. Although one can imagine a dry-stack of blocks with 2 or 3 as the base and one, two, or more courses high, with layers of 2 X 8 X 16 wood applied to the top and a few layers of 3/4" plywood atop that would be substantial, but, the norm I have seen on many websites is a single block one, two, or more courses high without the benefit from a wider base with a substantial wood platform on top of the block to evenly spread the load applied. Blocks are simply an inherently bad system to use for dunnage.
If you plan to use wood use large timber (12 X 12, 10 X 10, 8 X 8's...) make sure to use enough timber as a base, not just (2) stacked 12 X 12's one on top of the other. Make a wide base and put the next course of wood timber 90 degrees from the first and so on. Dry stacked wood that is tall and single stacked one piece on top of the other is unstable and can fall over if the boat and trailer are on any incline or the boat is bumped while supported by this timber. There is more than one leg on a table otherwise it would fall over easily. Wide and substantial are the keys to support, keep the layers solid, and minimize bridging. Feel good about it; over-do-it.
Naturally, Boat Stands, as engineered and manufactured and used in accordance with the Boat Stand manufacturers' recommendations for amount, size, number, and placement for your particular boat, are the best supporting method.
As previously discussed, you can leave the Portable Boat Lift attached to allow you to slightly raise and lower the boat to reposition the boat stands or substantial dunnage for complete access to the boat hull where the stands or substantial dunnage were placed initially, or remove the Boat Lift while supported with your boat stands or substantial dunnage.
At the risk of belaboring the obvious, raising a boat is inherently dangerous to the extent that it depends upon the common sense, skills and judgment of the person doing the job. If you’re not confident you can accomplish the task safely—don’t attempt it! Hire a professional or even buy another boat. And of course extra precautions must be taken any time there’s a chance that other people or children may walk or play around the raised boat, which is nearly always.
Don't Sneeze! Just keep digging Bob, it's OK!
Use the Lift on firm level ground and lift the boat the minimum height required to clear the trailer. Check the equipment each time it is used to ensure your safety. Never go under the boat until it is properly supported, and check the soundness of the bow eye, inside and out, before you begin. The bow eye must be in new or like new condition with no signs of wear or deterioration and factory or professionally installed according to the ABYC recommendations. Do not use the lift if there are signs of wear to any of the lift parts or the bow eye.
IMPORTANT: Read and follow all instructions and do not proceed without careful understanding of the instructions found on this website and other printed information from us regarding the safe operating instructions found throughout. HSA Engineers and Scientists have calculated the lifts value only. HSA and Portable Boat Lift do not warrant attachments affect to the design. The design is calculated for a WLL (Working Load Limit) at the bow eye attachment while fully assembled with all pins installed, on level firm ground that does not yield. All attachments, of the permanently attached attachment points on the attachment (the boat), shall be of capable capacity and have the ability to withstand the weight of the attachment (the boat), or equal to the Lift performance capacity, or better, or installed as in accordance with, but not limited to or constrained to, but in all cases at least equal to ABYC H-40 40.5.33 regarding bow eye capacity, installation, and all related sections while not exceeding the WLL of the Lift. The Lift is not designed or warranted to work in any other capacity other than specifically mentioned and expressed herein. Write or call with any and all questions or concerns regarding Lift usage before you use it or for clarification of any of the content found at the website or on any printed Portable Boat Lift material. We warrant the capacity of the Lift only, no other warranty of performance is indicated or implied and the Lift shall be used by the operator in accordance with his or her own judgment of its ability to perform Lifting of any boat.
The Portable Boat Lift is manufactured to accommodate most boat, hull, pitch configurations, and boat trailer combinations for boats with a bow eye. In rare cases, you may need to make some minor adjustments to suit your particular boat and boat trailer solely at your discretion and without the approval of Portable Boat Lift. Access to your bow eye may require the lowering of your trailer winch assembly. Never leave the Boat Lift attached and/or unattended where another person or child may operate the winch or when the boat is not fully and properly supported. Do not use the Lift for any other purposes than those specified.
It is common for the Portable Boat Lift to attract a crowd; it's called "AN ATTRACTIVE NUISANCE". Use good judgment and establish a safe zone to keep spectators and especially children away during the entire Lifting process and while the boat is off the trailer!
These instructions are very important to safely and successfully use the Portable Boat Lift, although they are limited to the experience we have on the boats we have tested and used to determine these instructions.
As previously indicated your particular boat, bull hull pitch, and boat/trailer configuration may necessitate some minor adjustments to the Lift or additional steps needed to do the work at your own discretion and without our implied consent. Any modifications to the Lift must be performed by a professional with the knowledge and expertise needed to make such modifications at your discretion and at your own risk.
Foremost is SAFETY! Our intention is to manufacture a lift that will aid you in separating your boat from your trailer in a manner that is safer than bottle jacks, floor jacks and sliding dunnage along while on your back under a boat, but, raising a boat to separate it from a trailer is inherently dangerous to an extent that it depends on the common sense, mechanical skills and judgment of the person doing the job. If you’re not confident you can accomplish the task safely, don’t attempt it!
You must provide your own boat stands and consult your boat stand manufacturer for size, placement and quantity of boat stands needed to properly and safely support your boat without damage to your boat or your person. "Sound the Hull before placing Boat Stands or Dunnage to ensure the hull where you intend to place Boat Stands or Dunnage is capable of withstanding the weight applied. Sounding the Hull will provide some evidence of deterioration and areas to be avoided for Boat Stands or Dunnage. Please research 'how to sound a hull' before placing Boat Stands or Dunnage. Before going under any boat make sure all boat stands are properly installed. If your able to and competent to design dunnage for the purpose of supporting the weight of the boat use only substantial dunnage and design and install it at your own discretion and without the consent of Portable Boat Lift. Our recommendations are solely intended to offer an alternative support system and should be designed and constructed with care and by competent individuals knowledgeable enough to design and construct such dunnage for safe operations.
If there is no room at the transom to properly place boat stands because your trailer supports come out as far back as the boat transom and you cannot safely shift, push, pull, cajole, or persuade the boat back off the trailer just enough to gain access to properly support the transom through the many methods usually used and available, then our Boat Lift may not be the product/mechanism for you. There are methods to move your boat back enough on a trailer to gain room needed to set stands under the transom that will be performed at your own discretion and without the consent of Portable Boat Lift.
One of the main objectives to operate the Boat Lift safely is to keep the Trapeze no more than 12” higher or lower than level on the Pivot Stand or no more than 12” higher or lower than level on the Winch Stand from start to finish of the operation. More than this will cause an unacceptable out of plumb condition on the Pivot or Winch Stands. If all the instructions are followed there should be sufficient separation between the boat and trailer gained through just a few inches of Lift operation to safely pull your trailer out from under your boat without having the Trapeze out of Level more than 12" from start to finish of the Lifting procedure.
It is important to keep the Trapeze ‘out of level’ position to a minimum. Never raise your boat more than is needed to safely pull the trailer out from under the boat; all you need is ½” of clearance between the boat hull and the trailer to pull the trailer out. Pull the trailer out slowly checking the entre time for enough clearance to avoid contact with the moving trailer and the supported Boat.
All parts are Made in the USA (except for the optional wheels)
Please call or write for more information